Towards Understanding Sustainability Practices in the Fast Fashion Industry: A Multi-Case Study

Authors

  • Maryia Talyka School of Business and IT, University of New York in Prague
  • Aaron Johnson School of Business and IT, University of New York in Prague
  • Ondřej Dvouletý School of Business and IT, University of New York in Prague https://orcid.org/0000-0001-9151-2033
  • Vojtěch Zíka School of Business and IT, University of New York in Prague

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.62374/0rdc3w89

Keywords:

fast fashion, supply chain, environmental sustainability, greenhouse gas emissions, sustainability reports

Abstract

In recent years, the fast fashion industry has attracted significant public scrutiny for its substantial contribution to greenhouse gas emissions, prompting many companies to commit to reducing their carbon footprint. However, the practical solutions adopted by the industry to decarbonize its operations remain ambiguous. Therefore, to address this gap, a content analysis was performed on the sustainability initiatives taken by the five biggest fast fashion brands to make their product design, process design, and supply chain processes less carbon-intensive. It has been found that although brands have attempted to lessen their GHG emissions, their present efforts are still insufficient to achieve net zero in GHG emissions in the following decades. Therefore, the fast fashion industry should adopt a comprehensive sustainability approach to mitigate its environmental impact, focusing on long-term solutions to reduce GHG emissions across the fast fashion supply chain.

References

Abbate, S., Centobelli, P., Cerchione, R., Nadeem, S. P., & Riccio, E. (2024). Sustainability trends and gaps in the textile, apparel and fashion industries. Environment, Development and Sustainability, 26(2), 2837-2864. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10668-022-02887-2

Adidas. (2021). Annual Report. Retrieved November 12, 2022, from https://report.adidas-group.com/2021/en/servicepages/downloads.html

Aftab, M. A., Yuanjian, Q., Kabir, N., & Barua, Z. (2018). Super Responsive Supply Chain: The Case of Spanish Fast Fashion Retailer Inditex-Zara. International Journal of Business and Management, 13(5), 212. https://doi.org/10.5539/ijbm.v13n5p212

Anguelov, N. (2015). The Dirty Side of the Garment Industry: Fast Fashion and Its Negative Impact on Environment and Society (1st ed.). CRC Press. https://doi.org/10.1201/b18902

Arrigo, E. (2020). Global Sourcing in Fast Fashion Retailers: Sourcing Locations and Sustainability Considerations. Sustainability, 12(2), 508. https://doi.org/10.3390/su12020508

Backs, S., Jahnke, H., Lüpke, L., Stücken, M., & Stummer, C. (2020). Traditional versus fast fashion supply chains in the apparel industry: an agent-based simulation approach. Annals of Operations Research, 305(1–2), 487–512. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10479-020-03703-8

Barnes, L., & Lea‐Greenwood, G. (2006). Fast fashioning the supply chain: shaping the research agenda. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 10(3), 259–271. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020610679259

Better Cotton Initiative. (n.d.). Retrieved March 5, 2023, from https://bettercotton.org/field-level-results-impact/key-sustainability-issues/

Bläse, R., Filser, M., Kraus, S., Puumalainen, K., & Moog, P. (2024). Non‐sustainable buying behavior: How the fear of missing out drives purchase intentions in the fast fashion industry. Business Strategy and the Environment, 33(2), 626-641. https://doi.org/10.1002/bse.3509

Bruce, M., Daly, L., & Towers, N. (2004). Lean or agile: A solution for supply chain management in the textiles and clothing industry? International Journal of Operations &Amp; Production Management, 24(2), 151–170. https://doi.org/10.1108/01443570410514867

Burchill, G., & Fine, C. H. (1997). Time Versus Market Orientation in Product Concept Development: Empirically-Based Theory Generation. Management Science, 43(4), 465–478. https://doi.org/10.1287/mnsc.43.4.465

Cachon, G. P., & Swinney, R. (2011). The Value of Fast Fashion: Quick Response, Enhanced Design, and Strategic Consumer Behavior. Management Science, 57(4), 778–795. https://doi.org/10.1287/mnsc.1100.1303

Cai, Y. J., & Choi, T. M. (2020). A United Nations' Sustainable Development Goals perspective for sustainable textile and apparel supply chain management. Transportation Research Part E: Logistics and Transportation Review, 141, 102010. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tre.2020.102010

Camargo, L. R., Pereira, S. C. F., & Scarpin, M. R. S. (2020). Fast and ultra-fast fashion supply chain management: an exploratory research. International Journal of Retail &Amp; Distribution Management, 48(6), 537–553. https://doi.org/10.1108/ijrdm-04-2019-0133

Caniato, F., Caridi, M., Crippa, L., & Moretto, A. (2012). Environmental sustainability in fashion supply chains: An exploratory case based research. International Journal of Production Economics, 135(2), 659–670. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2011.06.001

Caro, F., & Martínez-de-Albéniz, V. (2015). Fast Fashion: Business Model Overview and Research Opportunities. International Series in Operations Research &Amp; Management Science, 237–264. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4899-7562-1_9

Chen, Y. (2024). How blockchain adoption affects supply chain sustainability in the fashion industry: a systematic review and case studies. International Transactions in Operational Research, 31(6), 3592-3620. https://doi.org/10.1111/itor.13273

Chigueco, I. A., & Anguelova, M. M. (2022). O ABC do Isaac: O livro do alfabeto escrito e ilustrado maravilhosamente por uma criança (Portuguese Edition). Independently published.

Christopher, M., Lowson, R., & Peck, H. (2004). Creating agile supply chains in the fashion industry. International Journal of Retail &Amp; Distribution Management, 32(8), 367–376. https://doi.org/10.1108/09590550410546188

De Aguiar Hugo, A., De Nadae, J., & Da Silva Lima, R. (2021). Can Fashion Be Circular? A Literature Review on Circular Economy Barriers, Drivers, and Practices in the Fashion Industry's Productive Chain. Sustainability, 13(21), 12246. https://doi.org/10.3390/su132112246

Dobilaite, V., Mileriene, G., Juciene, M., & Saceviciene, V. (2017). Investigation of current state of pre-consumer textile waste generated at Lithuanian enterprises. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 29(4), 491–503. https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-08-2016-0097

Dragomir, V. D., & Dumitru, M. (2022). Practical solutions for circular business models in the fashion industry. Cleaner Logistics and Supply Chain, 4, 100040. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clscn.2022.100040

Echeverria, C. A., Handoko, W., Pahlevani, F., & Sahajwalla, V. (2019). Cascading use of textile waste for the advancement of fibre reinforced composites for building applications. Journal of Cleaner Production, 208, 1524–1536. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.10.227

Ellram, L. M., Tate, W., & Carter, C. R. (2008). Applying 3DCE to environmentally responsible manufacturing practices. Journal of Cleaner Production, 16(15), 1620–1631. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2008.04.017

Fletcher, K. (2014). Sustainable fashion and textiles: design journeys. Choice Reviews Online, 52(04), 52–1786. https://doi.org/10.5860/choice.185557

Fraser, E., & Van Der Ven, H. (2022). Increasing Transparency in Global Supply Chains: The Case of the Fast Fashion Industry. Sustainability, 14(11520), 1–24. https://doi.org/10.3390/su141811520

Gap Inc. (2021). Gap Inc. ESG Report. Retrieved November 12, 2022, from https://investors.gapinc.com/financial-information/annual-reports/default.aspx

Gheorghe, C., & Matefi, R. (2021). Sustainability and Transparency—Necessary Conditions for the Transition from Fast to Slow Fashion: Zara Join Life Collection's Analysis. Sustainability, 13(19), 11013. https://doi.org/10.3390/su131911013

Greenhouse Gas Protocol. (n.d.). World Resource Institute. https://ghgprotocol.org/sites/default/files/standards/ghg-protocol-revised.pdf

H&M Group. (2021). Sustainability Performance Report. Retrieved November 12, 2022, from https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/sustainability-reporting/

Inditex Group. (2021). Annual Report. Retrieved November 12, 2022, from https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2021/en/documents/annual_report_2021.pdf

Keßler, L., Matlin, S. A., & Kümmerer, K. (2021). The contribution of material circularity to sustainability—Recycling and reuse of textiles. Current Opinion in Green and Sustainable Chemistry, 32, 4. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cogsc.2021.100535

Kniazeva, M., Aiello, G., Dasmi, C., Mazzoli, V., Nechaeva, O., & Syed, F. U. (2024). Why fashion brands enter the metaverse: Exploring the motivations of fast fashion and luxury fashion brands. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 15(1), 62-89. https://doi.org/10.1080/20932685.2023.2269952

Koszewska, M. (2018). Circular Economy — Challenges for the Textile and Clothing Industry. Autex Research Journal, 18(4), 337–347. https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2018-0023

Krippendorff, K. (2004). Content Analysis: An Introduction to Its Methodology (4th ed.). SAGE Publications, Inc. https://books.google.cz/books?hl=en&lr=&id=nE1aDwAAQBAJ&oi=fnd&pg=PP1&ots=yZemUnmQ8z&sig=mB8LDd-Eu90agZ_VYEGURcLX2Sg&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false

L’Abbate, P., Dassisti, M., Cappelletti, G. M., Nicoletti, G. M., Russo, C., & Ioppolo, G. (2018). Environmental analysis of polyester fabric for ticking. Journal of Cleaner Production, 172, 735–742. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.10.045

Leal Filho, W., Perry, P., Heim, H., Dinis, M. a. P., Moda, H., Ebhuoma, E., & Paço, A. (2022). An overview of the contribution of the textiles sector to climate change. Frontiers in Environmental Science, 10. https://doi.org/10.3389/fenvs.2022.973102

MacCarthy, B. L., & Jayarathne, P. G. S. A. (2010). Fast Fashion: Achieving Global Quick Response (GQR) in the Internationally Dispersed Clothing Industry. Innovative Quick Response Programs in Logistics and Supply Chain Management, 37–60. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-04313-0_3

Marcketti, S. B., & Karpova, E. E. (2020). The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions (1st ed.). Bloomsbury Academic. https://www.perlego.com/book/1357200/the-dangers-of-fashion-towards-ethical-and-sustainable-solutions-pdf

Marques, A. D., Marques, A., & Ferreira, F. (2020). Homo Sustentabilis: circular economy and new business models in fashion industry. SN Applied Sciences, 2(2). https://doi.org/10.1007/s42452-020-2094-8

Mayring, P. (2011). Qualitative content analysis: theoretical foundation, basic procedures and software solution. https://www.ssoar.info/ssoar/bitstream/handle/document/39517/ssoar-2014-mayring-Qualitative_content_analysis_theoretical_foundation.pdf

Meskini, M., Mahmud, T. S., Ray, S., Richter, A., Sithi, T. T., & Ng, K. T. W. (2024). Sustainability, profitability, and resiliency of the fast fashion industries during a pandemic. Energy & Environment, 0958305X241239896. https://doi.org/10.1177/0958305X241239896

McKinsey & Company. (2020). Fashion on Climate. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/fashion-on-climate

Mehrjoo, M., & Pasek, Z. J. (2014). Impact of Product Variety on Supply Chain in Fast Fashion Apparel Industry. Procedia CIRP, 17, 296–301. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.procir.2014.01.082

Munasinghe, M., Jayasinghe, P., Ralapanawe, V., & Gajanayake, A. (2016). Supply/value chain analysis of carbon and energy footprint of garment manufacturing in Sri Lanka. Sustainable Production and Consumption, 5, 51–64. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2015.12.001

Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth &Amp; Environment, 1(4), 189–200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9

Nike. (2021). Nike Impact Report. Retrieved November 12, 2022, from https://investors.nike.com/investors/news-events-and-reports/default.aspx

Peters, G., Svanström, M., Roos, S., Sandin, G., & Zamani, B. (2015). Carbon footprints in the textile industry. Handbook of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of Textiles and Clothing, 3–30. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-08-100169-1.00001-0

Pulse of the Fashion Industry. (2019). In Global Fashion Agenda (GFA). Retrieved November 3, 2022, from https://globalfashionagenda.org/product/pulse-of-the-fashion-industry-2019/

Quantis. (2018). Measuring Fashion: Insights from the Environmental Impact of the Global Apparel and Footwear Industries. https://quantis-intl.com/measuring-fashion-report

Rahman, Md. M., & Haque, M. (2016). Investigation Of Fabric Wastages In Knit T-Shirt Manufacturing Industry In Bangladesh. International Journal of Research in Engineering and Technology. https://doi.org/10.15623/ijret.2016.0510035

Rana, S., Pichandi, S., Karunamoorthy, S., Bhattacharyya, A., Parvee, S., & Fangueiro, R. (2015). Carbon Footprint of Textile and Clothing Products. In Handbook of Sustainable Apparel Production (pp. 141–165). Taylor & Francis.

Ratnakar Adhikari & Yumiko Yamamoto. (2008). Textile and clothing industry - Adjusting to the post-quota world. Studies in Trade and Investment, 3–48. https://ideas.repec.org/h/unt/ecchap/tipub2500_pt1chap1.html

Recycled Claim Standard. (n.d.). SCS Global Services. https://www.scsglobalservices.com/services/recycled-claim-standard

Runnel, A., Raiban, K., Castel, N., Oja, D., & Bhuiya, H. (2017). Creating a digitally enhanced circular economy. Reverse Resources.

Sadowski, M., Perkins, L., & McGarvey, E. (2021). Roadmap To Net Zero: Delivering Science- Based Targets In The Apparel Sector. Boston Consulting Group.. https://doi.org/10.46830/wriwp.20.00004

Sajn, N. (2019). Environmental impact of the textile and clothing industry: What consumers need to know. European Union. European Parliamentary Research Service (EPRS). https://www.europarl.europa.eu/thinktank/en/document/EPRS_BRI(2019)633143

Sandin, G., & Peters, G. M. (2018). Environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling – A review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 184, 353–365. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.266

Sandin,G., Spak, B., Zamani, B., & Peters, G. (2019). Environmental impact of textile fibers — what we know and what we don't know. In Mistra Future Fasion. http://mistrafuturefashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/G.Sandin-Environmental-assessment-of-Swedish-clothing-consumption. MistraFutureFashionReport-2019.05.pdf

Sandvik, I. M., & Stubbs, W. (2019). Circular fashion supply chain through textile-to-textile recycling. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 23(3), 366–381. https://doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-04-2018-0058

Schmidt, C. W. (2009). Carbon Offsets: Growing Pains in a Growing Market. Environmental Health Perspectives, 117(2). https://doi.org/10.1289/ehp.117-a62

Sellitto, M. A., Valladares, D. R. F., Pastore, E., & Alfieri, A. (2021). Comparing Competitive Priorities of Slow Fashion and Fast Fashion Operations of Large Retailers in an Emerging Economy. Global Journal of Flexible Systems Management, 23(1), 1–19. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40171-021-00284-8

Smith, P. (2023, June 4). Projected carbon dioxide equivalent emissions of the apparel industry worldwide from 2019 to 2030. Statista. https://www.statista.com/statistics/1305696/apparel-industry-co2e-emissions/#:~:text=The%20apparel%20industry%20is%20considered,dioxide%20equivalents%20into%20the%20atmosphere.

Statista. (2023, July 7). Global revenue of apparel market 2014-2027. https://www.statista.com/forecasts/821415/value-of-the-global-apparel-market#:~:text=The%20global%20revenue%20of%20the,trillion%20U.S.%20dollars%20in%202027.

The price of fast fashion. (2018). Nature Climate Change, 8(1), 1–1. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41558-017-0058-9

Tiseo, I. (2021, April 22). Global demand for polyethylene terephthalate 2010-2030. Statista. https://www.statista.com/statistics/1128658/polyethylene-terephthalate-demand-worldwide/

Todeschini, B. V., Cortimiglia, M. N., Callegaro-de-Menezes, D., & Ghezzi, A. (2017). Innovative and sustainable business models in the fashion industry: Entrepreneurial drivers, opportunities, and challenges. Business Horizons, 60(6), 759–770. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bushor.2017.07.003

Tokatli, N. (2007). Global sourcing: insights from the global clothing industry the case of Zara, a fast fashion retailer. Journal of Economic Geography, 8(1), 21–38. https://doi.org/10.1093/jeg/lbm035

Truscott, L., Tan, E., & Opperskalski, S. (2017). Preferred Fiber & Materials Market report. Textile Exchange.

Turker, D., & Altuntas, C. (2014). Sustainable supply chain management in the fast fashion industry: An analysis of corporate reports. European Management Journal, 32(5), 837–849. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.emj.2014.02.001

Vulaj, M. (2020). Will Fast Fashion Go Out of Style Soon? How Couture Designers, Celebrities, and Luxury Brands Fighting Back May Change The Future Legal Landscape For Mass Affordable Retailers. Santa Clara High Technology Law Journal, 36(2), 197.

Wang, B., Luo, W., Zhang, A., Tian, Z., & Li, Z. (2020). Blockchain-enabled circular supply chain management: A system architecture for fast fashion. Computers in Industry, 123, 103324. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.compind.2020.103324

Wang, L., Li, Y., & He, W. (2017). The Energy Footprint of China's Textile Industry: Perspectives from Decoupling and Decomposition Analysis. Energies, 10(10), 1461. https://doi.org/10.3390/en10101461

Wren, B. (2022). Sustainable supply chain management in the fast fashion Industry: A comparative study of current efforts and best practices to address the climate crisis. Cleaner Logistics and Supply Chain, 4, 100032. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clscn.2022.100032

Yin, R. K. (2002). Case Study Research: Design and Methods, 3rd Edition (Applied Social Research Methods, Vol. 5) (3rd ed.). SAGE Publications, Inc.

Downloads

Published

Dec. 31, 2024

Issue

Section

Articles

How to Cite

Talyka, M. ., Johnson, A. ., Dvouletý, O., & Zíka, V. (2024). Towards Understanding Sustainability Practices in the Fast Fashion Industry: A Multi-Case Study. New Perspectives on Political Economy, 20(1-2), 59-89. https://doi.org/10.62374/0rdc3w89

Similar Articles

1-10 of 11

You may also start an advanced similarity search for this article.