Towards Understanding Sustainability Practices in the Fast Fashion Industry: A Multi-Case Study
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.62374/0rdc3w89Keywords:
fast fashion, supply chain, environmental sustainability, greenhouse gas emissions, sustainability reportsAbstract
In recent years, the fast fashion industry has attracted significant public scrutiny for its substantial contribution to greenhouse gas emissions, prompting many companies to commit to reducing their carbon footprint. However, the practical solutions adopted by the industry to decarbonize its operations remain ambiguous. Therefore, to address this gap, a content analysis was performed on the sustainability initiatives taken by the five biggest fast fashion brands to make their product design, process design, and supply chain processes less carbon-intensive. It has been found that although brands have attempted to lessen their GHG emissions, their present efforts are still insufficient to achieve net zero in GHG emissions in the following decades. Therefore, the fast fashion industry should adopt a comprehensive sustainability approach to mitigate its environmental impact, focusing on long-term solutions to reduce GHG emissions across the fast fashion supply chain.
References
Abbate, S., Centobelli, P., Cerchione, R., Nadeem, S. P., & Riccio, E. (2024). Sustainability trends and gaps in the textile, apparel and fashion industries. Environment, Development and Sustainability, 26(2), 2837-2864. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10668-022-02887-2
Adidas. (2021). Annual Report. Retrieved November 12, 2022, from https://report.adidas-group.com/2021/en/servicepages/downloads.html
Aftab, M. A., Yuanjian, Q., Kabir, N., & Barua, Z. (2018). Super Responsive Supply Chain: The Case of Spanish Fast Fashion Retailer Inditex-Zara. International Journal of Business and Management, 13(5), 212. https://doi.org/10.5539/ijbm.v13n5p212
Anguelov, N. (2015). The Dirty Side of the Garment Industry: Fast Fashion and Its Negative Impact on Environment and Society (1st ed.). CRC Press. https://doi.org/10.1201/b18902
Arrigo, E. (2020). Global Sourcing in Fast Fashion Retailers: Sourcing Locations and Sustainability Considerations. Sustainability, 12(2), 508. https://doi.org/10.3390/su12020508
Backs, S., Jahnke, H., Lüpke, L., Stücken, M., & Stummer, C. (2020). Traditional versus fast fashion supply chains in the apparel industry: an agent-based simulation approach. Annals of Operations Research, 305(1–2), 487–512. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10479-020-03703-8
Barnes, L., & Lea‐Greenwood, G. (2006). Fast fashioning the supply chain: shaping the research agenda. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 10(3), 259–271. https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020610679259
Better Cotton Initiative. (n.d.). Retrieved March 5, 2023, from https://bettercotton.org/field-level-results-impact/key-sustainability-issues/
Bläse, R., Filser, M., Kraus, S., Puumalainen, K., & Moog, P. (2024). Non‐sustainable buying behavior: How the fear of missing out drives purchase intentions in the fast fashion industry. Business Strategy and the Environment, 33(2), 626-641. https://doi.org/10.1002/bse.3509
Bruce, M., Daly, L., & Towers, N. (2004). Lean or agile: A solution for supply chain management in the textiles and clothing industry? International Journal of Operations &Amp; Production Management, 24(2), 151–170. https://doi.org/10.1108/01443570410514867
Burchill, G., & Fine, C. H. (1997). Time Versus Market Orientation in Product Concept Development: Empirically-Based Theory Generation. Management Science, 43(4), 465–478. https://doi.org/10.1287/mnsc.43.4.465
Cachon, G. P., & Swinney, R. (2011). The Value of Fast Fashion: Quick Response, Enhanced Design, and Strategic Consumer Behavior. Management Science, 57(4), 778–795. https://doi.org/10.1287/mnsc.1100.1303
Cai, Y. J., & Choi, T. M. (2020). A United Nations' Sustainable Development Goals perspective for sustainable textile and apparel supply chain management. Transportation Research Part E: Logistics and Transportation Review, 141, 102010. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.tre.2020.102010
Camargo, L. R., Pereira, S. C. F., & Scarpin, M. R. S. (2020). Fast and ultra-fast fashion supply chain management: an exploratory research. International Journal of Retail &Amp; Distribution Management, 48(6), 537–553. https://doi.org/10.1108/ijrdm-04-2019-0133
Caniato, F., Caridi, M., Crippa, L., & Moretto, A. (2012). Environmental sustainability in fashion supply chains: An exploratory case based research. International Journal of Production Economics, 135(2), 659–670. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ijpe.2011.06.001
Caro, F., & Martínez-de-Albéniz, V. (2015). Fast Fashion: Business Model Overview and Research Opportunities. International Series in Operations Research &Amp; Management Science, 237–264. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-1-4899-7562-1_9
Chen, Y. (2024). How blockchain adoption affects supply chain sustainability in the fashion industry: a systematic review and case studies. International Transactions in Operational Research, 31(6), 3592-3620. https://doi.org/10.1111/itor.13273
Chigueco, I. A., & Anguelova, M. M. (2022). O ABC do Isaac: O livro do alfabeto escrito e ilustrado maravilhosamente por uma criança (Portuguese Edition). Independently published.
Christopher, M., Lowson, R., & Peck, H. (2004). Creating agile supply chains in the fashion industry. International Journal of Retail &Amp; Distribution Management, 32(8), 367–376. https://doi.org/10.1108/09590550410546188
De Aguiar Hugo, A., De Nadae, J., & Da Silva Lima, R. (2021). Can Fashion Be Circular? A Literature Review on Circular Economy Barriers, Drivers, and Practices in the Fashion Industry's Productive Chain. Sustainability, 13(21), 12246. https://doi.org/10.3390/su132112246
Dobilaite, V., Mileriene, G., Juciene, M., & Saceviciene, V. (2017). Investigation of current state of pre-consumer textile waste generated at Lithuanian enterprises. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 29(4), 491–503. https://doi.org/10.1108/ijcst-08-2016-0097
Dragomir, V. D., & Dumitru, M. (2022). Practical solutions for circular business models in the fashion industry. Cleaner Logistics and Supply Chain, 4, 100040. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clscn.2022.100040
Echeverria, C. A., Handoko, W., Pahlevani, F., & Sahajwalla, V. (2019). Cascading use of textile waste for the advancement of fibre reinforced composites for building applications. Journal of Cleaner Production, 208, 1524–1536. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.10.227
Ellram, L. M., Tate, W., & Carter, C. R. (2008). Applying 3DCE to environmentally responsible manufacturing practices. Journal of Cleaner Production, 16(15), 1620–1631. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2008.04.017
Fletcher, K. (2014). Sustainable fashion and textiles: design journeys. Choice Reviews Online, 52(04), 52–1786. https://doi.org/10.5860/choice.185557
Fraser, E., & Van Der Ven, H. (2022). Increasing Transparency in Global Supply Chains: The Case of the Fast Fashion Industry. Sustainability, 14(11520), 1–24. https://doi.org/10.3390/su141811520
Gap Inc. (2021). Gap Inc. ESG Report. Retrieved November 12, 2022, from https://investors.gapinc.com/financial-information/annual-reports/default.aspx
Gheorghe, C., & Matefi, R. (2021). Sustainability and Transparency—Necessary Conditions for the Transition from Fast to Slow Fashion: Zara Join Life Collection's Analysis. Sustainability, 13(19), 11013. https://doi.org/10.3390/su131911013
Greenhouse Gas Protocol. (n.d.). World Resource Institute. https://ghgprotocol.org/sites/default/files/standards/ghg-protocol-revised.pdf
H&M Group. (2021). Sustainability Performance Report. Retrieved November 12, 2022, from https://hmgroup.com/sustainability/sustainability-reporting/
Inditex Group. (2021). Annual Report. Retrieved November 12, 2022, from https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2021/en/documents/annual_report_2021.pdf
Keßler, L., Matlin, S. A., & Kümmerer, K. (2021). The contribution of material circularity to sustainability—Recycling and reuse of textiles. Current Opinion in Green and Sustainable Chemistry, 32, 4. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cogsc.2021.100535
Kniazeva, M., Aiello, G., Dasmi, C., Mazzoli, V., Nechaeva, O., & Syed, F. U. (2024). Why fashion brands enter the metaverse: Exploring the motivations of fast fashion and luxury fashion brands. Journal of Global Fashion Marketing, 15(1), 62-89. https://doi.org/10.1080/20932685.2023.2269952
Koszewska, M. (2018). Circular Economy — Challenges for the Textile and Clothing Industry. Autex Research Journal, 18(4), 337–347. https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2018-0023
Krippendorff, K. (2004). Content Analysis: An Introduction to Its Methodology (4th ed.). SAGE Publications, Inc. https://books.google.cz/books?hl=en&lr=&id=nE1aDwAAQBAJ&oi=fnd&pg=PP1&ots=yZemUnmQ8z&sig=mB8LDd-Eu90agZ_VYEGURcLX2Sg&redir_esc=y#v=onepage&q&f=false
L’Abbate, P., Dassisti, M., Cappelletti, G. M., Nicoletti, G. M., Russo, C., & Ioppolo, G. (2018). Environmental analysis of polyester fabric for ticking. Journal of Cleaner Production, 172, 735–742. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.10.045
Leal Filho, W., Perry, P., Heim, H., Dinis, M. a. P., Moda, H., Ebhuoma, E., & Paço, A. (2022). An overview of the contribution of the textiles sector to climate change. Frontiers in Environmental Science, 10. https://doi.org/10.3389/fenvs.2022.973102
MacCarthy, B. L., & Jayarathne, P. G. S. A. (2010). Fast Fashion: Achieving Global Quick Response (GQR) in the Internationally Dispersed Clothing Industry. Innovative Quick Response Programs in Logistics and Supply Chain Management, 37–60. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-642-04313-0_3
Marcketti, S. B., & Karpova, E. E. (2020). The Dangers of Fashion: Towards Ethical and Sustainable Solutions (1st ed.). Bloomsbury Academic. https://www.perlego.com/book/1357200/the-dangers-of-fashion-towards-ethical-and-sustainable-solutions-pdf
Marques, A. D., Marques, A., & Ferreira, F. (2020). Homo Sustentabilis: circular economy and new business models in fashion industry. SN Applied Sciences, 2(2). https://doi.org/10.1007/s42452-020-2094-8
Mayring, P. (2011). Qualitative content analysis: theoretical foundation, basic procedures and software solution. https://www.ssoar.info/ssoar/bitstream/handle/document/39517/ssoar-2014-mayring-Qualitative_content_analysis_theoretical_foundation.pdf
Meskini, M., Mahmud, T. S., Ray, S., Richter, A., Sithi, T. T., & Ng, K. T. W. (2024). Sustainability, profitability, and resiliency of the fast fashion industries during a pandemic. Energy & Environment, 0958305X241239896. https://doi.org/10.1177/0958305X241239896
McKinsey & Company. (2020). Fashion on Climate. https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/fashion-on-climate
Mehrjoo, M., & Pasek, Z. J. (2014). Impact of Product Variety on Supply Chain in Fast Fashion Apparel Industry. Procedia CIRP, 17, 296–301. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.procir.2014.01.082
Munasinghe, M., Jayasinghe, P., Ralapanawe, V., & Gajanayake, A. (2016). Supply/value chain analysis of carbon and energy footprint of garment manufacturing in Sri Lanka. Sustainable Production and Consumption, 5, 51–64. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.spc.2015.12.001
Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H., Perry, P., Rissanen, T., & Gwilt, A. (2020). The environmental price of fast fashion. Nature Reviews Earth &Amp; Environment, 1(4), 189–200. https://doi.org/10.1038/s43017-020-0039-9
Nike. (2021). Nike Impact Report. Retrieved November 12, 2022, from https://investors.nike.com/investors/news-events-and-reports/default.aspx
Peters, G., Svanström, M., Roos, S., Sandin, G., & Zamani, B. (2015). Carbon footprints in the textile industry. Handbook of Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of Textiles and Clothing, 3–30. https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-08-100169-1.00001-0
Pulse of the Fashion Industry. (2019). In Global Fashion Agenda (GFA). Retrieved November 3, 2022, from https://globalfashionagenda.org/product/pulse-of-the-fashion-industry-2019/
Quantis. (2018). Measuring Fashion: Insights from the Environmental Impact of the Global Apparel and Footwear Industries. https://quantis-intl.com/measuring-fashion-report
Rahman, Md. M., & Haque, M. (2016). Investigation Of Fabric Wastages In Knit T-Shirt Manufacturing Industry In Bangladesh. International Journal of Research in Engineering and Technology. https://doi.org/10.15623/ijret.2016.0510035
Rana, S., Pichandi, S., Karunamoorthy, S., Bhattacharyya, A., Parvee, S., & Fangueiro, R. (2015). Carbon Footprint of Textile and Clothing Products. In Handbook of Sustainable Apparel Production (pp. 141–165). Taylor & Francis.
Ratnakar Adhikari & Yumiko Yamamoto. (2008). Textile and clothing industry - Adjusting to the post-quota world. Studies in Trade and Investment, 3–48. https://ideas.repec.org/h/unt/ecchap/tipub2500_pt1chap1.html
Recycled Claim Standard. (n.d.). SCS Global Services. https://www.scsglobalservices.com/services/recycled-claim-standard
Runnel, A., Raiban, K., Castel, N., Oja, D., & Bhuiya, H. (2017). Creating a digitally enhanced circular economy. Reverse Resources.
Sadowski, M., Perkins, L., & McGarvey, E. (2021). Roadmap To Net Zero: Delivering Science- Based Targets In The Apparel Sector. Boston Consulting Group.. https://doi.org/10.46830/wriwp.20.00004
Sajn, N. (2019). Environmental impact of the textile and clothing industry: What consumers need to know. European Union. European Parliamentary Research Service (EPRS). https://www.europarl.europa.eu/thinktank/en/document/EPRS_BRI(2019)633143
Sandin, G., & Peters, G. M. (2018). Environmental impact of textile reuse and recycling – A review. Journal of Cleaner Production, 184, 353–365. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.02.266
Sandin,G., Spak, B., Zamani, B., & Peters, G. (2019). Environmental impact of textile fibers — what we know and what we don't know. In Mistra Future Fasion. http://mistrafuturefashion.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/G.Sandin-Environmental-assessment-of-Swedish-clothing-consumption. MistraFutureFashionReport-2019.05.pdf
Sandvik, I. M., & Stubbs, W. (2019). Circular fashion supply chain through textile-to-textile recycling. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, 23(3), 366–381. https://doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-04-2018-0058
Schmidt, C. W. (2009). Carbon Offsets: Growing Pains in a Growing Market. Environmental Health Perspectives, 117(2). https://doi.org/10.1289/ehp.117-a62
Sellitto, M. A., Valladares, D. R. F., Pastore, E., & Alfieri, A. (2021). Comparing Competitive Priorities of Slow Fashion and Fast Fashion Operations of Large Retailers in an Emerging Economy. Global Journal of Flexible Systems Management, 23(1), 1–19. https://doi.org/10.1007/s40171-021-00284-8
Smith, P. (2023, June 4). Projected carbon dioxide equivalent emissions of the apparel industry worldwide from 2019 to 2030. Statista. https://www.statista.com/statistics/1305696/apparel-industry-co2e-emissions/#:~:text=The%20apparel%20industry%20is%20considered,dioxide%20equivalents%20into%20the%20atmosphere.
Statista. (2023, July 7). Global revenue of apparel market 2014-2027. https://www.statista.com/forecasts/821415/value-of-the-global-apparel-market#:~:text=The%20global%20revenue%20of%20the,trillion%20U.S.%20dollars%20in%202027.
The price of fast fashion. (2018). Nature Climate Change, 8(1), 1–1. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41558-017-0058-9
Tiseo, I. (2021, April 22). Global demand for polyethylene terephthalate 2010-2030. Statista. https://www.statista.com/statistics/1128658/polyethylene-terephthalate-demand-worldwide/
Todeschini, B. V., Cortimiglia, M. N., Callegaro-de-Menezes, D., & Ghezzi, A. (2017). Innovative and sustainable business models in the fashion industry: Entrepreneurial drivers, opportunities, and challenges. Business Horizons, 60(6), 759–770. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.bushor.2017.07.003
Tokatli, N. (2007). Global sourcing: insights from the global clothing industry the case of Zara, a fast fashion retailer. Journal of Economic Geography, 8(1), 21–38. https://doi.org/10.1093/jeg/lbm035
Truscott, L., Tan, E., & Opperskalski, S. (2017). Preferred Fiber & Materials Market report. Textile Exchange.
Turker, D., & Altuntas, C. (2014). Sustainable supply chain management in the fast fashion industry: An analysis of corporate reports. European Management Journal, 32(5), 837–849. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.emj.2014.02.001
Vulaj, M. (2020). Will Fast Fashion Go Out of Style Soon? How Couture Designers, Celebrities, and Luxury Brands Fighting Back May Change The Future Legal Landscape For Mass Affordable Retailers. Santa Clara High Technology Law Journal, 36(2), 197.
Wang, B., Luo, W., Zhang, A., Tian, Z., & Li, Z. (2020). Blockchain-enabled circular supply chain management: A system architecture for fast fashion. Computers in Industry, 123, 103324. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.compind.2020.103324
Wang, L., Li, Y., & He, W. (2017). The Energy Footprint of China's Textile Industry: Perspectives from Decoupling and Decomposition Analysis. Energies, 10(10), 1461. https://doi.org/10.3390/en10101461
Wren, B. (2022). Sustainable supply chain management in the fast fashion Industry: A comparative study of current efforts and best practices to address the climate crisis. Cleaner Logistics and Supply Chain, 4, 100032. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.clscn.2022.100032
Yin, R. K. (2002). Case Study Research: Design and Methods, 3rd Edition (Applied Social Research Methods, Vol. 5) (3rd ed.). SAGE Publications, Inc.
Downloads
Published
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2024 Maryia Talyka, Aaron Johnson, Ondřej Dvouletý
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License.